The science behind Melanin formation

  • Melanin is the dark pigment produced by the Melanocyte cell.
  • This cell occurs at the junction of the superficial epidermis & deeper dermis of all skin.
  • There are more melanocytes in some parts of the body and less in others e.g. less in palms & soles of feet but more in private parts e.g. groin & perineum.
  • Once melanin production is stimulated, it can only be controlled at one step.
  • This step is under the control of the enzyme Tyrosinase.
  • This enzyme production has to be decreased to reduce melanin production.
  • Therefore, most skin lighteners are Tyrosinase inhibitors e.g. Kojic acid, Arbutin etc
  • The melanin made by the melanocyte is transferred to skin cells called keratinocytes.
  • These melanin-bearing keratinocytes then travel to the surface where they are shed as dead skin on a daily basis.
  • Therefore, after melanin has been made, an effective skin lightening active, can prevent melanin from being transferred to the keratinocyte.
  • Niacinamide is such an ingredient.
  • Secondly if melanin-carrying keratinocytes are removed using whitening-exfoliators e.g. glycolic acid or retinoid, then the skin would appear lighter.