The science behind Melanin formation
- Melanin is the dark pigment produced by the Melanocyte cell.
- This cell occurs at the junction of the superficial epidermis & deeper dermis of all skin.
- There are more melanocytes in some parts of the body and less in others e.g. less in palms & soles of feet but more in private parts e.g. groin & perineum.
- Once melanin production is stimulated, it can only be controlled at one step.
- This step is under the control of the enzyme Tyrosinase.
- This enzyme production has to be decreased to reduce melanin production.
- Therefore, most skin lighteners are Tyrosinase inhibitors e.g. Kojic acid, Arbutin etc
- The melanin made by the melanocyte is transferred to skin cells called keratinocytes.
- These melanin-bearing keratinocytes then travel to the surface where they are shed as dead skin on a daily basis.
- Therefore, after melanin has been made, an effective skin lightening active, can prevent melanin from being transferred to the keratinocyte.
- Niacinamide is such an ingredient.
- Secondly if melanin-carrying keratinocytes are removed using whitening-exfoliators e.g. glycolic acid or retinoid, then the skin would appear lighter.